Field Notes: Seattle

My stomach was tied in knots as I sat in the back of the seaplane. It felt like the rear seat of an old Volkswagen Bug--rattly, cramped, and not at all confidence-inspiring. I scanned the cluster of ancient dials and gauges on the dashboard; the logo on the steering wheel, straight out of the 1960s. I wondered if this thing was seaworthy--much less airworthy.

Flying in a seaplane had been on my wife's bucket list for years, so I reluctantly agreed to help her check it off while we were in Seattle. I figured that worst-case scenario, it'd be a cool way to die. It would certainly make a good story.

As we bumped along the water and finally lifted off with the grace of a June bug, my old fear of flying kicked back in. The plane rattled as I looked out across Puget Sound and spotted the skyline on the horizon, the Space Needle looming large. Below us, the Mariners' and Seahawks' stadiums looked like miniature models. As we climbed higher, I finally began to relax. It turned out to be a hell of a way to see the city.

I didn't expect to like Seattle. Honestly, I wasn't sure I even wanted to. I'd heard too much about the crime, drugs, and people shouting awkward viewpoints into the void. But I did like it.

Our first stop was Pike Place Market. It reminded me of La Boqueria in Barcelona--a perfect place to grab a drink, slurp some oysters, and poke through the shops. Just outside, we stumbled upon an alley covered in chewing gum which was colorful, but honestly, kind of gross. After that, we wandered for miles--walking like we do in Europe, no plan, just momentum. Much to my surprise, we never felt unsafe.

Lunch was at Mason's Famous Lobster Rolls, which was amazing. Afterward, we followed a tunnel to the Starbucks Reserve, where we sipped espresso martinis and picked up a few gifts.

We ended the day atop the Space Needle, wine in hand, watching the golden haze fade away over Puget Sound. The sun dipped below the horizon, and just like that, our trip to Seattle was over.

FIELD NOTES:

• Eats: Try an oyster shooter or coconut shrimp at the Fisherman's Restaurant & Bar, located at the base of the Seattle Great Wheel.

• Drinks: Try an espresso martini flight at the Starbucks Reserve. It's touristy for a reason.

• Essential: Grab a glass of wine and watch the sun set from the top of the Space Needle.

• Overrated: The ferry ride was relaxing, but skip Bainbridge Island. There's not much to do.

• Pro Tip: For the best view of the Seattle skyline, book a ride on a seaplane. It's a little scary at first--like flying in a tin can--but once you're in the air, it's pure exhilaration. Nothing beats the view as you lift off the water and soar over the city. We used Seattle Seaplanes.